Beginner guide · 3 min read

How to use a bead loom

On a loom bracelet the beads sit in a straight grid, which is why pixel-art motifs and lettering look sharpest on a loom. This guide shows how to bead on a loom step by step, from warping the loom to finishing the ends of your first loom bracelet.

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What you need

  • A bead loom: a simple loom with a spring or notched bar at each end to space the threads is enough.
  • Beads: Miyuki Delica 11/0. Their even size gives a smooth, tight surface.
  • Thread: a thin, strong beading thread for the warp and the weft.
  • Needle: a long, thin beading needle that holds a whole row at once.
  • A pattern: a loom chart you can read row by row; start with the free loom patterns.

Warping the loom

The threads stretched lengthwise on the loom are the warp. Every bead sits between two warp threads, so you need one more warp thread than the pattern is beads wide: a pattern 11 beads wide takes 12 warp threads.

  1. Cut the warp clearly longer than the bracelet; you need long tails at both ends for finishing.
  2. Lay the threads in the notches or springs at both ends of the loom, about a bead’s width apart.
  3. Tension every warp thread the same. A loose thread lets the beads in that column slip.

Weaving the first row

The thread that carries the beads is the weft. Tie it to the outermost warp thread and repeat these steps for every row:

  1. String the beads of the chart’s first row onto the needle, left to right.
  2. Bring the weft under the warp threads and push the beads up so each one sits between two warp threads.
  3. Holding the beads up with a finger, pass the needle back through the same beads, this time over the warp threads.
  4. Pull the thread snug; the row locks in place. String the next row and repeat.
On a loom the rows and columns line up straight; you read the chart row by row, each row left to right.

Following the pattern

On long bracelets the most common mistake is losing track of your row. On a paper chart, tick off finished rows or cover the rest with a ruler.

Open the pattern in BeadDot and switch to follow mode: it shows the next row and its beads and saves your place. To repeat your own motif along the wrist use the bracelet pattern maker; to start from a photo use image to loom pattern.

Finishing the bracelet

The fiddliest part of loom work is dealing with all the warp ends. Common ways to finish:

  • Weave the ends back in: thread each warp end on a needle, run it back through the beads for a few rows and trim. The neatest result, and the slowest.
  • Ribbon crimp ends: weave a few rows of weft without beads past the last row to secure the band, then glue the ends into crimp end findings.
  • Leather or fabric backing: stitch the bracelet onto a backing and hide the ends underneath.

Work out how many beads and grams you need with the bead count guide.

Frequently asked questions

How many warp threads do I need?

One more than the pattern is beads wide. A pattern 11 beads wide needs 12 warp threads, because each bead sits between two threads.

Can I stitch a loom pattern in peyote?

Not directly. Peyote columns are offset by half a bead, so a loom chart looks skewed in peyote. Redraw the design as peyote in BeadDot, or convert an image into a peyote pattern.

Can I make a loom pattern without a loom?

There are loomless techniques that give a loom look, but a loom is the easiest way to start. If you would rather not use one, look at peyote or brick stitch patterns.

Try it on a pattern

Draw your pattern in the BeadDot studio or start from a template, then stitch it row by row in follow mode.

Open the studio